Household pet

Maxwell, or "Grumpy" grows on you. He's a desert tortoise, recently relocated into urban Ouagadougou to Jane's house, where I'm staying for a while. After eating recently-planted vines that are supposed to eventually provide the only shade in the back, he's been relegated to the side of the house. Three times he's got out to burrow under a car and gets stuck between the cement driveway and the bottom of the car.

To turn around in the small space he sort of climbs up the wall his height and slips over in the other direction.

He's a fan of lettuce, cabbage leaves, tomatoes and cucumber, which he seems to swallow whole. He'll come up to you and listens when you talk even if you don't have these delights in hand.

The International School has several baby tortoises. Not much good to guard the house, but an intringuing possibility for a pet!

Sundays in Ouaga

I attended the third church in Ouaga today - this one small and friendly with a drum that made my ears ache as it reverberated in the small box-like room. They didn't use the little chorus books, so I was grateful to recognize some from Benin days, but dredging the words out from memory was a little hard. One of the evening Bible college students was there so at least I knew someone in the congregation besides fellow missionaries.

Last week I attended an outlying area (photo) and was warned it would be hot. My little fan purchased at home for just such conditions was working overtime. The business agent at the office is the pastor for this church, which has a homework club for children where a SIM short-termer works.

The service order here is: congregational singing led from the front in French and local languages, each choir takes turn to sing (women, youth, children), visitors asked to stand and present themselves, announcements and offering, sermon translated to or from French and the local language, closing prayer and greetings (in one church visitors had to stand with the pastor so everyone shook their hand).

Another move . . . temporarily

I have moved temporarily to stay with Jane, about 15 min walk from the mission down some dusty lanes and across a busy street, past the market, down again for two blocks . . . and it’s the one on the left with the nice hedge and overhanging bougainvillea. My room isn’t quite unpacked (or tidied!), and despite the hard clean I gave it yesterday the bathroom now shows evidence of the dust-storm this morning before the small rain. When I have a shower, the toilet gets a good soaking anyway, so that helps with the dust.

I went downtown this morning with 2 short-termers and a visitor to try to get the layout on foot since it has been confusing when just being taken with others in cars. With the rain still falling we made it there ourselves by taxi caught by the side of the main road, by guesswork and bad memory (of course we forgot our map!). I picked up the extra bit of material I needed, and a few household bits at a “$2 shop”- “everything 1000cfa” here - but prices varied from 150 (the cleaning cloth) to 2000 (the cheap towel for the pool).

On a shopkeeper’s advice we found a patisserie for a nice breakfast that also sold whole-wheat bread and advised us where multigrain was to be found in the future.

The others contended with the throng of hassling-batik-clothes-sellers while I went to look at African material urged along by my own little throng (there wasn’t many customers out there in that damp). A large metal box-structure was piled high with material in all colours and patterns to the roof in the normal 6- or 12-yard “demis” and “pieces”, and a young man sitting on the piles in the interior pulled out the ones customers were interested in. I didn’t get what I went there for, and resolved next time to take an African friend since I’m sure I gave in much too soon on the bargaining on the ones I did get.

We then got directions to the Western-style supermarket where you could get ham (at only $20/kg for the square sandwich stuff and $30+ for the nicer kinds) and cheese (starting at around $15/kg for cheddar, with pizza and Swiss-style cheeses at $30/kg) - and I got a soap dish and my weekly chocolate allowance: a Bounty for $2.20.

The girls came back with me to visit Jane, who hasn’t been feeling well, and for lunch we ate most of the bread with tuna, peanut butter (i.e. ground peanuts), jam, the popular processed cheese triangles on sale everywhere that don’t need refrigeration and mayonnaise (not necessarily all together). They were fascinated by Jane’s new pet - the tortoise (more next blog on him).

First day's teaching in Burkina

Well, finished my first teaching session in Burkina. As part of Old Testament Survey we did “walk around the Old Testament” as an introduction, which livened things up as the students were tired. They work all day and had already had 2 evenings this week, so I tried to make the life of Solomon and the kings of Israel and Judah as applicable as possible for today, and ended up revising the “walk” when they were flagging.

I used a furloughing missionary’s big 4WD this time - a little scared since it was so high and so big among the bikes and motorbikes and I had seen a crushed bike under one similar the other week. It went OK, though, taking it still slowish over the bumpy roads, and I made it back OK. I have now met the recommended taxi driver that has a cell phone and I’m paying him next Thursday to take me there to get to know the place, then in the future will just have him pick me up at night (he says it should cost about $5 a time), since I can get street taxis there earlier. It would be easier with a car, but then cars have other hassles like affording, repairing, etc etc.

Takeaway Ouaga style

Ariane and I are sharing cooking, and consider the road-side barbecued meat too much of a bargain to bother finding the raw stuff and doing it ourself. I got beef the other day (tender spicy thinly sliced pieces) from the road up from the mission - $AU 1.50 for enough to add to vegies to make a stir-fry for the both of us.

Last night we went down to the other road to the mutton sellers we had seen earlier in the week. They had the chopped bits, but also this leg of lamb I'll use Sunday. We asked for yam fries straight from the oil (this lot cost 50c), and since it took a while had hot sweet potatoes (same quantity, same price) while sitting on an offered bench in the dark. I had bought the culturally-correct enamelled casserole dish to carry it home in, that comes in sets so you can have sauce and rice in the others. The little shop on the way home had the fruity drink in sachets that they also sell frozen which is quite refreshing (also 50c).

More exploring today with Ariane - we managed to get ourself to the Artisans' Village by taxi from the main road to check out for the future what is typically made by craftsmen here. There was some beautiful woven materials, and all kinds of metal statues, and modern and traditional leather work. There was not much wood (it predominated the Artisanal Center in Benin). On the way back the taxi we managed to find didn't go all the way into our sector, so we had a hot walk up from the main road in the sun, with a short break to pick up some ice cream for desserts. As a treat we also picked up frozen sachets (mine was chocolate icecream for 40c) to cool our throats on the rest of the walk up the dusty roads home to the guesthouse.

The intrepid explorer

With advice from the African staff on what to say, and my studies earlier of landmarks, I estimated I had studied the route sufficiently to take the plunge and try to make the trip from the SIM guesthouse to IMS by walking and public transport today. Some times I'll be able to get lifts to the main road, but people going to town turn left - the IMS is to the right.

I walked down about 10 minutes to the main road, managed to cross at a traffic light betting that the staged car then bike lights would give me enough time to get accross, then started waving at taxis - not very often coming by. The first two were full, the third stopped and actually agreed to my "Zone Une?" enquiry. Then at the main road he turned left - and I thought of all that exra walking.

My fellow passenger in the back explained as the taxi then bumped off onto a dirt road that the taxi was going in deeper, which would save me time if I walked then laterally to my destination. But pretty soon I was the only one left so I offered him an extra 300francs (80c) to take me the 1-2 km extra, and he agreed. He gave me advice on what to say but warned it was very rare to find one like him coming in this direction. I may have to walk to the main road, take two separate taxis, and then walk from the main road in each direction.

I had more conversation about my future role, a hurried lunch of spaghetti with a 'spinach and fish' sauce, then went off to the market with the secretary, Josiane. She gave up her lunch time to show me around, and I picked up quite a few things in a very familiar environment of little sheds crowded together and bargaining.

Luckily we got a lift back so I didn't have to try the taxi number with the load of shopping.

Something else familiar was the yam chips sellers and the barbecued mutton along the side of the road not far from the mission we saw last evening when out for a walk - welcome when you don't feel like cooking or want to speed up a casserole. The meat here so far has been tenderer and less stringy than Benin, and nicely spiced.

I've had fun starting up and gradually finding people on Skype and reconnecting (?!) after some time with the free telephone service computer-to-computer, as well as using it once to call home at a good rate.

P.S. For those who want to trace my exploring route from SIM to IMS, you can email me and I'll send you the Google Earth files

Rain!

The big news of the day was the downpour last night - accompanied by lightening, blackout, and preceded by an impressive dust-storm. The amount of dust in the air reflected the flash so the photo is not rain as it may look like. It was great having a cool night for sleeping finally.

I was at IMS in the morning to meet the students and listen to a Gospel Recordings presentation. I was able to discuss a bit more about my involvement in the future in the missions courses, start looking at what needs doing in the library (i.e. three bookcases), eat a bit of rice and sauce for lunch and accompany them to the Christian bookstore where I picked up a kids' book (a mystery) based in Benin, a French study bible and a cover for my little English bible.

Josiane, IMS' secretary/book-keeper, has kindly offered to introduce me to the best local market. I hope to get to IMS alone with my legs and taxis where I can find them for the first time tomorrow, leaving plenty of time for the trip.

I've been asked to take over an evening Bible class, and have been able to book an office car for the trip since it's out of office hours. I think I start this week, so I better start preparing soon!

Where I'll be working ... and living?

9 May 2007

Tuesday evening I talked about the Missiological Institute with Joel Gray as their family were our rostered meal hosts As a result, I met some key personnel and participated in my first Missiological institute committee meeting Wed afternoon, and was slotted to teaching devotions at Thursday morning. It is a bit complicated to get to, but not far on bumpy dirt roads about 15 min. from the SIM office.

This meeting happened after lunch with an English couple in a duplex which is one possibility for me, about 7 min drive from the office sort of in the direction of IMS. It’s smaller than any of the places I’ve lived in in Benin, but there would be a Swiss couple next door to start and an American lady later. Like IMS, it seems an extremely complicated route from the office, and both way off the taxi routes so I’ve been advised I should have transport. I explained I’m willing to pay extra to book a regular taxi, since I won’t get much for selling my car in Benin (I’ve been told that customs, repair and resell costs make it worth little to bring here) and will probably need those funds for moving costs.

I haven’t been sleeping well since my arrival - the heat at night coupled with a really hard foam mattress. It should be rainy season soon, though, which will be better for sleeping but not for getting around the mostly dirt roads of Ouaga. Hopefully by next hot season I’ll be more used to the climate.

10 May 2007

In between being taken out to visit sites we need to learn about and meals to get to know Ouagadougou SIMers, Ariane and I have been taken shopping a bit to see where to get things, and wandered a little around the quartier but still have lots to explore. The heat cuts short walks except if very early or late. I need to get a map since I can’t remember how to get back anywhere. I’m missing the convenience of the prevalent Cotonou taximotos, who would take you from anywhere to anywhere for a reasonable fee - even car taxis don’t seem to turn up near the mission, near any accommodation I’ve visited or near the Institute.

After getting the all-clear on my project last week I’ve felt free to get stuck fully into things and am continually asking questions trying to get my bearings as soon as possible. I’ll attend the closest church this Sunday and try the other ones out once I know where I’m living and what are the transport possibilities. I’d like to friends with some African women, perhaps by joining a choir??? I’d appreciate prayer about the whole accommodation thing (especially getting something close to other missionaries but also available transport) and the moving, which looks increasingly complicated.

Arriving in Ouaga

7 May 2007
After an uneventful (and unsleepful) flight from Paris of 4 1/2 hours we dragged handluggage down another steep stair, and loaded onto other buses to go to Ouagadougou International Airport Arrival area. We had no problems getting through immigration, and Ariane’s luggage eventually came off the carousel, but my name was up as “awaiting baggage” so I had to wait in line to explain what as missing. One advantage was that by the time I was done the customs were just barely interested in my carryons and her 3 bags, as we were practically the last out.

I was to return at 4.30pm the next day for the next flight for the bags. I was taken by SIM office staff in at 5pm (to give the flight time to get through), we arrived at the airport by about 5.15 and saw my bags being moved away to storage. We stopped the porters, got a scolding for being so late, and were allowed to take the bags without any customs wanting to see them. We obviously had not had enough faith in Burkinabe efficiency. In all, it took 30 minutes to go and return to the Guest house, where in a few minutes our lift to dinner turned up. As far as I can see, everything arrived safely, and the few things that I found damp (and already smelling moldy) in one dried out overnight.

8 May 2007
Tuesday morning I filled in the required forms (including the required will in French: where do you want the body buried…) and started discussing about accommodation options; the afternoon I filled in the director with a bit of my background and reasons for what I’m looking for in accommodation. The short-term co-ordinator here that picked us up at the office showed us around a bit, and we had main meals with missionary families.
Days and nights are hot, hot, hot …. And sticky if you try to do anything. I keep waking up at night, even with the heat on, and have welcomed getting back into the ‘afternoon siesta’ system to rest.

Getting here ...

3 May

A 12 hour car trip with friends from Benin days Mary and Lee: just a few quick breaks, but the traffic holdup at one point had us crawling for hours. I had visited other ex-Benin friends at the SIM retirement home in Sebring, Florida. Didn’t see much of the area, but did catch up with people, as well as joining in with the morning aqua-aerobics in the pool. When she heard that I hoped to keep fit with this sort of exercise in Ouagadougou the leader kindly gave me an instruction book.

6 May - after repacking for a few days, I finally have the grand total of 2 bags and one box for check-in baggage, carryons and coat loaded, 2 trunks to follow late in the year by container to Niger (my plan to send books by mail didn’t work - they were returned), and a small box (mainly of books I need sooner than that) that may be added to other travelers to the area in the next few months.

I’ve had messages from a Canadian short-termer going on the same flight as I to Ouaga about meeting to spend some of our 9/10 hours in Paris, but she has other commitments as well in the day, and we agree to try to find each other in the terminal on the way out.

I take in a small plastic bag of things that I hope to add to bags if weight allows: when we get there the first bag is 51 lbs (1 over), but the second has 2.5lbs spare so the guy stops the conveyer belt leading it out of sight and I add 2 items. It’s decided that it’s too complicated to add to the box and retape it although there is a few pounds free. Calvin shoves the other 2 items (books) in the outside pocket of my already-full carryon - I hope that it will fit in the overhead bin now. I’ve already phoned to book in the excess item which was priced at US$180 to Ouaga, but the checker gives it to me for US$85, saying he wished he could waive it but doesn’t have the authority.

…..
As I typed the above paragraph waiting near the boarding gate I heard a garbled announcement with my flight number so went to the desk as I thought we were asked. Turned out they had overbooked and were looking for people to swap on to a Chicago flight instead of Washington. I thought of my flight early April out of Chicago (7 hours late due to 2 cancellations and a delayed flight I eventually got in via standby) but knew I had plenty of time to spare in Paris before the Ouaga flight and at least knew the Chicago airport (pretty well by now), and they promised I’d arrive only 2 hours later, so I agreed. Then I found out I got a voucher for a free round-trip within the USA for doing it, and they put me in first class for the flight to Chicago (only difference from economy on this short domestic flight was continuous free drinks instead of the one, and slightly more space).

I watched from the window as Charlotte had the first fine weather for days until I saw my luggage arrive at the Chicago flight - cardboard box still intact in the seat behind the driver and bags held on the front of the tractor bonnet with one hand. I’d overheard the desk attendant tell them to change “the luggage for OUA - don’t even try to pronounce the name”.

I had a good connection in Chicago with a front row seat as we left of queues of planes on the tarmac in 4 directions taking off. The man in the window seat vacated it to take place in an empty center row so I had plenty of room, and relaxed but didn’t sleep as we flew to Paris.

7 May 2007
Since I still had several hours in Paris I did get out a bit, but with damp weather and my carryons too heavy to walk much I took a few bus rides past famous places, before meeting Ariane in the Ouagadougou departure area. We felt like we were on a “mystery tour” as a bus that had loaded us passengers kept going farther and farther around the airport.